Arquiste NOCTURNAL GREEN (Carlos Huber, Rodrigo Flores-Roux and Nicold Mancini) 2017

December 1978, Midnight in the garden, Armando’s Le Club, Acapulco, Mexico©

Carlos Huber, Creative Director for Arquiste and Master Perfumer Rodrigo-Flores Roux of Givaudan collaborated on two of our favorite fragrances of 2016- EL and ELLA. We were transported to Acapulco of the 1970s, and Editor Lauryn Beer wrote, “1970s Acapulco. Bronzed goddesses prowl the poolside while sipping champagne cocktails. Tawny, bare-chested men watch them from behind their mirrored shades. A samba is pulsating somewhere in the background, and ripe blossoms sway in the curupita trees”. Nocturnal Green, is the second chapter and by lighting the candle's wick, we are poolside once again, where midnight trysts and the scents of beach, exotic flowers and pheromones are in the evening air… let your imagination take over.

"The nocturnal scent of the garden, the pool surrounded by a lush mirage of palm fronds, grass and tropical flowers, a blue and green carpet stretching onto the starlit bay. Your senses get lost in it, feeling the cool wet grass underfoot turning into a warm sand as the garden merges with the beach, your head still spinning from the hot night. Breath it all in…you’re in paradise".

Notes include: Petrichor, Cannon ball tree flower (curupfrita), Sea salt, Fresh cut grass, Jungle soil, Oakmoss and Seaweed.

Developed with Nicold Mancini and Rodrigo Flores-Roux

The scented Candle's estimated burning time: Up to 55 hours.

8.9 oz / 251 g.

Michelyn Camen, Editor-in-Chief

 Via Arquiste and my own introduction.


New Perfume Review: Houbigant Quelques Fleurs Jardin Secrets (Luca Maffei) 2017+ Eternal Spring Draw


image via

I love knowing secrets, especially scented ones.  Imagine a retreat you escape to, that no knows about.  This can be a place hidden in plain sight or somewhere far away, but what makes it special is that it is your secret place.

Houbigant Quelque Fleurs Jardin Secrets photo by Aaron in his garden

My secret place is my garden where I spend as much time as I possibly can.  It’s not a place I usually allow others; it is literally my own secret garden – my castle, my refuge, my home.  When Michelyn reported from Esxence that wunderkind Italian perfumer Luca Maffei and Creative Director Elisabetta Perris debuted a ‘secret garden” for the storied House of Houbigant, my interest was piqued. 

Tim Walker for Italian Vogue Dancing Flowers©

Quelques Fleurs Jardin Secret's  beauty is intertwined with the history of one of the most iconic and revered fragrances in the world; Robert Bienaimé’s 1912 floral masterpiece Quelques Fleurs which still captives me each time its magic tickles my nose. As a collector of vintage fragrances, it one of the most perfect fragrances ever created and I am thrilled how beautifully Luca Maffei reinterpreted this gem.  Hundreds of thousands of  fragrant delights tempt; fantasy at every turn.  Colors dance in an ecstatic kaleidoscopic ever changing…wonderment with each glance. 

Drew Barrymore photographed by Annie Liebovitz

Then, out of your peripherial vision, you see a lone arbor and a narrow path. Walking down the path you are transported to a magical land of eternal spring. A  wondrous world with perfectly placed citrus trees, beautifully manicured rose hedges, and graceful flowers carpet the ground. 

Photo Tim Walker ©

There are flowers placed by color here and there, and each row is spaced just so, to allow an airy feel to the peaceful atmosphere.The scent of citrus tree fruit is the first you encounter – mandarin orange. You are calm and exhilarated simultaneously. Next, vibrant green bergamot trees filled with still green fruits adds a lively twist to the orange as we come to our first corner. 

Chanel Iman for The Block Summer 2010©

The area opens up to a small field lined by paths on each side lined by rose hedges filled with yellow, red, but mostly white blossoms. Their fragrance is not overpowering, it is graceful and certainly elegant. One both sides of the path stand perfectly formed magnolias with their pale pink and white flowers emanating their light citrusy floral magic in the breeze along with the orange blossoms a short way behind.  You feel your soul is being cleansed.

MC Digital art

Moving forward the path is lined with rows of jasmine planted in rich sandalwood mulch leading to the entrance of a walled gazebo covered with ylang ylang vines. Here you can sit awhile and contemplate the beauty that surrounds you and gaze at a fountain, seemingly from another time, where water flows surrounded by fragrant bushes. The air around you is crystal clear and smells clean and inviting, with a pleasant musky undertone emanating from your own skin. It’s at this moment you realize you have found sweet bliss in your own scented secret garden.

TOP NOTES: Bergamot, Yellow Mandarin, Neroli.

HEART NOTES: Magnolia Flower, Narcissus Absolute, Rosa Centifolia Absolute, Orange Blossom Absolute, Jasmine, Orris, Ylang Ylang.

BASE NOTES: Sandalwood, Ambrette Absolute, White Amber, Musk.

Quelques Fleurs Jardin Secret EDP is available exclusively at Neiman Marcus in the USA and on Houbigant Paris’ website

Disclaimer:  Review based on tester supplied by Houbigant Paris.  Thank you.  Opinions are my own.

–Aaron Potterman, Contributor and Vintage Perfume Expert and Michelyn Camen, Editor-in-Chief who also is the Art Director

Quelque Fleurs Jardins Secrets photo by Aaron 

Thanks to the generosity of Houbigant Paris USA and The Perris Group we have a 100 ml bottle (valued at $ 190) for a registered US reader, (please register so your comment counts here). To be eligible, please tell us what you thought of Aaron’s review of Quelques Fleurs Jardins Secret, a hidden place you love to spend time or if you have a garden and your favorite Houbigant Fragrance.  The draw closes 4/23/2017

We announce the winners on our site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS FEED…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume


New Perfume Review:  Parfums de Nicolaï ROSE ROYALE (Patricia de Nicolaï) 2017 + The Perfect Rose Draw

Woman Holding A Rose Qajar Persia, early 19th Century

"Because thy garden is a thief of hearts

The spring is in thy debt

For flowers stay fresher in thy hand

Than on the branch." – Tãleb Ãmoli (17th century Persian poet)

Jeremy Lipking©

Recreating the realistic and fresh fragrance of flowers, especially of roses, has been the elusive goal of perfumers for centuries.  Even with the aid of today's sophisticated technologies and our current understanding of how enzymatic activity affects the chemical composition of scents, capturing the olfactory image of a perfect rose remains a challenge worthy of the most talented of noses.  Not only the scent of the flower itself, but also the temperature, the time of day, the general atmosphere and environment of the garden, are all part of the scented experience that perfumers strive to convey with a soliflore.

Patricia de Nicolaï with Michelyn at Esxence 2017

 Patricia de Nicolaï and her son Axel have managed, with their new Parfums de Nicolaï Rose Royale Eau de Toilette, to capture all the freshness and vitality of a newly opened rose, suggestions of the delicate, ephemeral nature of the petals and impressions of the air, the hour and the spirit of the rose garden. Patricia de Nicolaï has this to say about her new Rose Royale fragrance that impressed Michelyn, (who is not a rose fan usually) so at Esxence:

Frederick Childe Hassam (1859-1935). Woman Cutting Roses in a Garden.

In the perfume industry, rose is limitless. It’s a theme that I will never be too bored to explore. Last spring, when I arrived in my new lab located on the rue de Montpensier next to the Palais-Royal, Axel and I really wanted to pay a tribute to this unique spot, not really well known…even among Parisians! In June, the gardens of the Palais-Royal fills with floral scents. For the happy few who pass, no car, no bus…only borders of flowers, a proud central water jet and rose bushes with so many colours. I love garden roses! And it’s this specific scent that I wanted to catch and keep in one of my vials from the lab.  Like its fragile petals, the delicate rose scent is short-lived… However, it is exactly what Axel and I wanted to get for our new fragrance! After months of intense work and evaluations, we offer you Rose Royale. A natural and fresh rose with a hint of fruity notes like the rose at the end of its stem. Dressed up by coriander and ambrette seeds, the ‘rosé’ heart of the fragrance opened up with delight. Woody notes protect this heart in order to give a great look and long lasting style’ Patricia de Nicolaï

White roses ~ Andrei Markin©

Defining the perfect rose, like choosing a single favorite fragrance, is, for many of us, impossible. There are literally thousands of fragrant rose hybrids and varieties and dozens of perfumed rose species to choose from. Rose scents can be divided into at least twelve categories.  The blooms often smell like, of course, roses. They can also scent the air with odors similar to nasturtium, orris, violet, apple, clove, anise, tea, mint, musk, a general fruitiness or citrus. Parfums de Nicolaï Rose Royale is a fragrant photograph of one of my favorite rose scents – the perfume of the wild rose, Rosa multiflora; I love the perfumed sprays and clusters of these simple white flowers.

Vicente Romero Redondo©

Rose Royale opens quite "rosy" but with a green coolness, perhaps the effect of black current buds and, like the blooms of Rosa multiflora, with a breath of citrus and spice.  If the sweet profile of average rose waters and rose oils is too much for you, the opening of Rose Royale will surprise and please with its youthful, bright and delicate qualities. As Rose Royale warms on my skin I am enveloped in an aura of late spring, of woodlands and the scent of the wild roses, a fresh green and spicy effect created by coriander, ambrette and bergamot.

 image via googlesearch

The heart is suffused with Turkish rose, never too rich or sweet.  Rose Royale remains crisp for hours.  With time the straw-like, honeyed effect of immortelle suggests the dried and slightly dusty rose petals I use as an ingredient in my own version of the Persian spice blend called "advieh".  Rose Royale's beautifully natural rose fragrance is grounded in sandalwood, a touch of guaiac and musk and lasts for at least 8 hours on my skin and days on clothing.  It may be an EdT, but it has the longevity of EdP

Lauryn Bacall 1940s

The sillage is noticeable but never intrusive. Rose Royale is a fragrance very much like the perfume of the real, living flower and, as Ralph Waldo Emerson said of the rose "…perfect in every moment of its existence."  For all its freshness, realism and vitality, this new perfume could be my own perfect rose! Notes:  Black current buds, passion fruit, bergamot, Turkish rose, coriander, ambrette seed, immortelle, sandalwood, guaiac wood and musk.

Disclaimer:  I would like to thank Parfums de Nicolaï for the bottle of this beautiful Rose Royale EdT.  My opinions are my own.

Gail Gross – Editor

Art Direction, Michelyn, Camen, Editor in Chief

Thanks to the generosity of Parfums de Nicolaï we have one 30 ml bottle of Rose Royale Eau de Toilette available to one registered reader  worldwide.(be sure to register or your comment will not count). To be eligible please let us know where you live, tell us what appeals to you about Gail's review of Rose Royale and if you have a favorite hybrid or species rose plant that you grow or simply enjoy and of course your favorite of Parfums de Nicolaï.  Draw closes 4/20/2017

We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS feed…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.