Fragrance Review: Ring Botanicals Ring of Fire (Jessica Ring) + Johnny and June Draw

ring of fire june carter  and johnny cash

Singer Johnny Cash with wife June Carter Cash in February 1971 at the Houston Rodeo. Darrell Davidson / Houston Chronicle

"Love is a burnin' thing,
And it makes a fiery ring
Bound by wild desire
I fell into a ring of fire
". -Johnny Cash (lyrics by June Carter 1963)

 

ring botanicals natural perfume jessica ring

Jessica Ring of Ring Botanicals

Jessica Ring of Ring Botanicals seems to have a sort of geo-mancy to add to the impressive list of talents the grower, distiller and perfumer showcases at Ring Botanicals  including the leather homage to the history of our local Pacific Northwest in Lewis & Clark, an amber dedicated to Oregon containing another of her self-grown raw materials- she shows how far reaching her alchemy is with Ring of Fire.

johnnycash-ring-of-fire

Johnny Cash Ring of Fire (song cowritten by June Carter Cash 1963)

Referencing the horse-shoe shaped area of the Pacific Ocean where 75% of the world's volcanoes are located, Ring of Fire is an obvious concentration of dormant possibility. Pele, one would imagine, might not be so pleased as male sacrifice makes a comeback where Ring of Fire is worn.  Applying the aesthetics and wisdom of indigenous materials, Ring of Fire imparts passionate potential and a primal joy from the volcanic area, Ring of Fire explodes jasmine as ginger and ishpink sparks are palatable. Chocolate from the Yucatan Peninsula, tinctured and aged nibs brought back from Jessica's travels in the region and a berry-like note slowly roll throughout.  Fossil amber and Shamama attar (also known as Hina) bring smoke and warning within a golden hued base.

johnny cash and june carter kissing 1980s

Johnny Cash and June Carter kissing 1980s

 Altogether something celebratory and easily given to the ecstatic.  Much more sexy than I would have imagined and evolving in the more than average wear time.

Johnny Cash- Eating cake 1971

Johnny Cash- Eating cake 1971

 

Gourmand herbs and spices, somewhat familiar, the majority of the raw materials are edible- and Ring of Fire becomes a craving. Again I wonder about the dangers of owning this because I truly want to eat it… or the wearer.

Notes: jasmine, ishpink (South American evergreen with cinnamon qualities), wild ginger, sweet leaf tobacco, fossil amber, cocoa, maca, red frankincense, wild orange, rock rose, shamama attar, nagarmotha

Einsof, Natural Perfumery Contributor

Art Direction and Theme: Michelyn Camen, the reference to the sexy edge and the fragrance name …Johnny and June. Coincidently, The Movie Ring of Fire debuted May 27, 2013

 

jessica ring

Jessica with wild lavender and her almebic she uses for her distillery

* Jessica is under contract with Timber Press for the publication of her first book, Plant Essential Oils: A Complete Reference to Using Essential Oils for Aromatherapy, Perfume, Health and Wellness, due out from Timber press 2017.

ring of fire  perfume

Thanks to Jessica Ring we have 5ml of Ring of Fire for a registered reader in the USA. To be eligible please leave a comment with what you enjoyed about Einsof’s review of Ring of Fire and let's welcome him back. We missed him. Bravo Jessica Ring, one of our favorite natural distillers and perfumers on your new book and your new website Draw closes 5/30/2016

We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume

Share

New Fragrance Review: Masque Milano L’Atessa (Esxence 2016) + Love Drawing Powder Draw

TheWhiteIrisbyEdwardWeston1921

The White Iris  Edward Weston (Tina Modotti model and Photographer Edward Weston's Lover) 1923

 During the large amounts of iris-tinted research I did for this piece on L’Attesa, Masque Milano’s startling new addition to their distinctive operatic storyline, I came across a description of orris root as Love Drawing Powder, how wondrous is this strange definition of one of perfumery’s most incomparable and sensitive materials. The idea that you lay a subtle olfactive trail of orris dust and the object of your desire will simply come to you, drawn by the beauty and overwhelming puissance of a rhizome. It is also a beautiful metaphor for this most singular iris scent from Italian perfumer Luca Maffei.

masque milano riccardo tedeschi alessandro brun masque milano

Masque Milano Creative Directors Riccardo Tedeschi and  Alessandro Brun

 It is no secret how much I admire the work of Creative Directors Alessandro Brun and Riccardo Tedeschi of Masque Milano; ever since I bought and reviewed Russian Tea, created for them by the hugely underrated nose Julien Rasquinet, I have had a kind a fever for their flamboyantly butch oeuvre. There is something about certain really handsome Italian men; so secure in their sexual mores that they can push at the boundaries of their gender with fabulous danger and enticing illusion.

-cristiano canali masque milano romanza

Cristiano Canali and Romaza by Masque Milano

Romanza, A Victorian Dandy was the narcotic crystallisation of this dynamic. Created in 2015 by Cristiano Canali, it is an arresting and profoundly erotic work of perfumery with a morbid, decadent narcissus note that swells like jaundiced rage before completely enveloping the senses. It will always divide wearers and this is good.

luca_maffei_masque_milano  lattesa

Riccardo Tedeschi, Luca Maffei and Alessandro Brun at Atelier Fragranze Milano

 L’Attesa (The Wait) is a worthy successor to Romanza, an austere, cryptic new portrait of iris by Luca Maffei that wowed folk at Esxence in Milan this year and  editor in chief Michelyn Camen. I’ve taken my time with it… you need to. It is a strange and complex perfume that demands your attention and then seems to push you away, denying you access to its secrets. Luca Maffei can do no wrong seems just now it seems, Masque Milano have launched L’Attesa just as Luca has garnered another Golden Pear in the Independent category at the 2016 Art & Olfaction awards for Néa, one part of the Les White triptych by Jul et Mad. (He also composed Garuda in the same trio; Nin-Shar was made by Sidonie Lancesseur). I think Maisïa; the charred fig scent he made recently for his frequent collaborator Gabriella Chieffo is an incredible composition, a weird mix of seared concrete, ash, green fig and sweet sad air. Luca Maffei's  Houbigant Cologne Intense has been lavishly praised too as an expert interpretation of the cologne style scent, his handling of the citrus element seemed refreshingly realistic and drenched in liquid sunshine.

delphine-thierry-Julien-Rasquinet-meo-fusciuni-cecile-zarokian

(Top) Delphine Thierry, Julien Rasquinet (upper) Meo Fuscino and Cecile Zarokian (bottom)

Alessandro and Riccardo have already worked with a really succulent menu of perfumers as they slowly assemble their opera of desire, using gifted olfactive composers to create scenes of original erotic and fascinating aromatics. Cécile Zarokian, Meo Fuscini, Julien Rasquinet, Cristiano Canali and Delphine Thierry have already laid down graceful and complex work for Masque Milano that viewed together are an emotive gathering of perfumes with power and exquisite texture. Now Luca lays down his concealed and graceful iris on a stage in near darkness while we marvel at its beauty.

Epilogue Edward Weston Tina Modotti

Epilogue Edward Weston Model Tina Modotti 1919

Despite its ebullient champagne overture, for me this is an austere monochrome iris. The tonal contrast is one of veiled grain and wash. It is the first time I have really experienced an iris like this, normally I inhale the composition and play the chords and facets and sense glimmer of aromatic colour, but L’Attesa is different, achromatic and mysteriously withheld. There is an unsettling shimmering dissonance between Luca’s iris triptych and the more carnal aspirations of his Madagascan ylang and stealthy tuberose.

SiberianIrisbyScarletBlack

Siberian Iris by Scarlett Black

There are three facets of iris used in L’Attesa, an Italian iris absolute, Italian iris root butter and French iris root butter, each of these particular materials have a slightly different personality, adding intricacy and gradation to the already rather elusive effects resting under that astonishing buzzy, yeasty champagne top. The French, Grasse-grown iris smells more fruity with a glowing chocolate mouth-feel tonality to it, noticeably more malleable and gourmand in tone, whereas the Italian (Pallida) iris is drier, greener, cooler somehow, chalky and distant. 

One of the most intriguing things about L’Attesa is Luca Maffei’s use of a champagne effect in the top of the composition, something that really shocks as the scent opens. It is one thing reading about and imagining how it might smell, but then actually experiencing it is quite another. Perfumers often use high levels of aldehydes or doses of pink pepper to suggest sparkle but Luca has used a rather weird Beer supercritical CO2 extraction from Charabot. I asked Luca why he chose to use it. He said: ‘..the Italian orris absolute has a very intense top note due to the high percentage of irones it contains. I was delighted by the idea of using the Beer CO2 to reinforce the powdery note and give the bitter powder note of the yeast to open the door the orris in the fragrance.’ 

Throughout the developmental process of L’Attesa Luca, Alessandro and Riccardo discussed the importance of the reality of a champagne opening, a yeasty fermented facet as opposed to a lip service special effect. In this Luca has more than succeeded, as you apply the scent, it smells like someone has smashed a bottle at your feet as you enter a cavernous ballroom. The Charabot Beer CO2 will have a naturally aldehydic glitter anyway from the hoppy, bitter blondness lending the perfume the throaty laughter of bubbles a champagne scent should rightly have. This is a superb addition to the expanding Masque Milano opera of senses and sensualities.

Demi Lovato Stone Cold 2015

Tina ModottiPepe Quintanilla, 1924

Edward Weston Tina Modotti Pepe Quintanilla, 1924 (digitalized)

Despite all the gaiety and exuberance however, L’Attesa is a strange work, haunting in its reticence. I am in love with it, coldly, obsessively from across a raucous room. I have followed the trail and the wait is over.

 Disclosure: Samples kindly sent by Masque Milano, opinions my own

Guest Contributor, The Silver Fox and author of The  Silver Fox

Art Direction: TSF and Michelyn.  We used the the art of photographer Edward Weston and his Italian born muse, lover and photographer Tina Modotti. The Stone Cold video, speicifically the melody, was the first sensorial connection I made as I wore L'Atessa.

Masque-Milano-LAttesa cafleurebon

Thanks to Masque Milano we have a draw for 35 ml L’Atessa, which officially launches in June for a registered reader anywhere in the world. To qualify, please leave a comment with what excites you about L’Attesa based on The Silver Fox’s Review, a descripion  that  was memorable, where you live and if you have a favorite Masque Milano fragrance. Draw closes 5/27/2016

We announce the winners on our site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume

Share

Atelier de Geste Blues and Stones Winner

atelier de geste blues and Stones discovery set

Beau Rhee of  Atelier De Geste created Blues, her first 100 percent botanical  fragrance in conjunction with Stones, as an artistic expression of  her love of natural elements. The fragrance is richly balsamic with a marine opening that reminds one of the smells of drying sea water upon the deck of a ship set sail across the ocean.

Courtesy of Beau Rhee of Atelier de Geste we have a perfume draw for our US, Canada and EU registered readers (yes you must be registered fragrance friends), for a discovery kit 8ml x 2 of Stones and Blues. The random winner of the draw is sserser. please email michelyn at cafleurebon dawt com by 12 NOON 5/22/2016 with Sampler Atelier de Geste Blues and Stones as your subject and your complete mailing and  phone details. This is a deadline and no exceptions if you are late. A nice note to Beau Rhee is always appreciated

We also announce our winners on our Facebook page so like Cafleurebon   or use our RSS option…or your dream prize will just be spilled perfume

Share